Archive for Horse Health

Just took my new Parelli Saddles Premier Ranch Roper on it’s first ride on my very fun (and fast) RBE around the HUGE bio-solid spreading equipment and had some nice gallops, gaits, jumped, and generally put the saddle through it’s paces.  I’m not sure I can even explain how at the exact same time it’s by far the most secure I’ve ever felt on a horse and yet the saddle that I least noticed while riding.  What an absolute homerun ParelliSaddles!  The horse moved spectacularly and clearly wasn’t the least bit impeded in any way.  Two Thumbs and Four Hooves UP!!

I have a question!
How long can I ride or should I ride my horse on a hot/humid day? What are the signs I should look for?

Z.W. – VA

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With the Washington Metro area just closing the books on the hottest month ever recorded, what is and isn’t safe for us and our horses has been a serious topic.

Running a boarding stable for the past 13 years, one curiosity I’ve noticed pretty consistently is the number of calls from concerned boarders we receive about their horses’ health and comfort in the winter, but the lack of calls even when we are posting heat indices of 120 or more.

It was explained to me by our vet many years ago like this.  A thousand pound animal with an inch of fur is made for staying warm, but can have a lot of trouble keeping cool when the weather turns hot.

Heat and humidity are combined to produce what is called a “Heat Index” or what it “feels” like outside.  In climates with very low humidity a 95 degree day may actually only produce a heat index of 90 or even 85.  Crank up the humidity, though, and you can experience what we did here in the Mid-Atlantic; 95-100 degree days with heat indices of 115, 120, or even like I saw just two weeks ago, 125!  There’s a simple term for this kind of weather – Killing Heat!

In animals that cool through perspiration, the cooling process is dependent on the rapid evaporation of sweat.  As the air becomes more and more saturated with moisture, it can’t readily accept any more, thus no evaporation and no cooling.  Couple this with the fact that for most horses under saddle, a large portion of their evaporation area is covered with a saddle and pad and you’ve got a recipe for an animal that can get very, very hot, very, very fast, and can only cool very little or not at all.  Core temperature can rise in minutes to a dangerous level and no amount of simple rest will allow for enough cooling to reverse the process.

For some general rules of thumb we are going to assume a horse in average body condition that works between 2 and 5 hours a week (the average trail horse.)  You can adjust these guidelines for horses in better or poorer condition.

Through heat indices up to 90 degrees, horses can exercise normally.  From 90 – 100 begin limiting exercise to shorter bursts of trot and canter and longer cooling walks.  Try to stick to the shade when you can.  Between 100 and 105, short walks with little or no trotting and stick close to home in case you need to get you or your horse under a hose.  After 105 I’d avoid anything more strenuous for your horse than grooming or grazing.  This would be a great time to re-watch those Parelli DVD’s you’ve been meaning to get back to.

If you have ventured out, here are some signs that it is time to get your horse cooled out.  If your horse is breathing harder than normal for the activity level, or beginning to pant, or his nostrils are flaring very rapidly, and it doesn’t return to a more appropriate rate in 1 minute.  If your horse is no longer sweating he’s probably already reaching a dangerous temp, and if he/she begins to exhibit a stilted gate, lethargy or any seeming confusion you are in the beginning of a heat stroke and need to get that horse under a hose, possibly packed with ice wraps around major arteries and should be calling a vet.  Your horse may likely require IV fluids at this point.  This exact situation just occurred a couple of weeks ago at a Civil War reenactment that went forward despite a heat index of 110.

Do not fall into the myth that you shouldn’t hose a hot horse.  Remove the hose nozzle and hose the horse quickly from head to toe, spend a little extra time on his back, chest, neck and belly, then concentrate your hose on the major arteries inside the hind legs.  This will allow you to cool the greatest amount of blood in the least amount of time and hopefully drop his core temp before any major organs, including the brain, are affected.  If someone can get a second hose, continue hosing the back, neck, chest and belly.  DO NOT give electrolyte paste to a horse in this condition.  Electrolytes must be accompanied by plenty of fresh water or they will actually pull water from the blood into the gut.  Electrolytes are a great way to pre-condition your horse to hydrate in advance of a ride and also a wonderful way to disguise foreign water when away from home so that your horse will continue to drink, and electrolyte flavored water to can be offered to a horse in heat exhaustion, but NEVER administer a paste.

Heat exhaustion and heat stroke can occur in a horse startlingly fast and can be hard to get back under control.  Take it seriously, and pay attention not just to temps, but to humidity and the heat index.  When in doubt, sit it out.  Before you know it we’ll be talking about winter riding!

Keep it Natural,

Todd

Hi Everyone – Over the years I’ve received hundreds of excellent questions from horse owners all over the country and have done my best to answer them as thoroughly as I could.  I hindsight, I wish we had all of those questions and answers compiled in one place in a searchable format.

Well, now we can.

I want to hear from you on any topic related to horses with any question you might have on your mind.  I will do my best to answer each one and post those questions and answers here for everyone to search and use at their convenience.  I will only put initials and states on questions, so feel free to fire away!

So, what are you waiting for? Stump the teacher! :) )

 

Todd

A current negative Coggins test is required for all horses residing on The JBiT Ranch, and is required on almost every farm in the country, at any public horse event, and on any state or National park. What you may not know is why.

Coggins was the name of the veterinary scientist who developed the definitive test for determining whether or not a horse was a carrier of the EIA virus. EIA (Equine Infectious Anemia) is a blood borne disease of the immune system in horses that acts quite similarly to AIDS in humans. It is not known to be contractible by humans, though, so rest easy. Before uniform, mandatory testing became the norm, it was not uncommon for entire herds to be mysteriously wiped out over a period of time by this silent killer. Since that time, however, EIA has been controlled to the point that reported cases are quite rare.

Please take a moment to look at your current Coggins certificate and note its date. To remain current, the Coggins test must be repeated annually (if traveling outside of Virginia, check your state’s requirements – they may range from 6 months to 2 years). This test can only be performed by a licensed veterinarian and generally costs about $20 plus farm call. What happens if a horse turns up positive? First, the farm on which that horse resides is quarantined by the State Department of Health. Every horse on the property, and any that left the property during the time the infected horse was present, must be tested. This is often done at the expense of the owner of the infected horse. The farm must remain quarantined for 30 days at the end of which all horses are tested again! The infected horse? Unfortunately he has only two options. A life of quarantine whereby he may never be within two hundred yards of any horse or horse pasture, or the animal must be destroyed. It’s quite reassuring to know all this can be avoided by having a current Coggins test.

Categories Horse Health
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Several different signs will help you determine when your mare will foal. The most important of which is her due date. Mares gestate an average of 340 days. Go forward a year from her last cover and come back 25 days. Understand that any mare can foal with any, all or no signs at all and any mare can foal healthily anywhere from almost a month early to a month late. Most mares stay somewhere near the averages and the following signs should help you know when it’s time to lose some sleep.

Bagging up is usually your first sign. You’ll feel a pouch starting well ahead of the teats, but the teats will remain deflated. As she progresses, the teats will eventually fill out, in many cases, ’til they seem like dimples in the udder, which will be huge at this point. It’s imperative to handle these udders daily, especially if you’ve got a maiden mare, or she may be so shocked by the baby biting at them that she won’t let it nurse (she will eventually, but you’ll be there for hours) – which reminds me, on a sidebar, have a baby bottle handy. If the baby hasn’t nursed in two or three hours, it may just run out of steam. No big deal, but it then often helps to strip out several ounces of colostrum into the bottle and feed baby for the energy to keep trying. Also, slathering the teat with fresh colostrum gives baby a clue as to where it came from. Remember – and this is critical – you can’t go back to bed until you’ve not only seen baby nurse, but felt its throat to be sure it is swallowing, not just playing. A foal is born entirely devoid of any antibody protection whatsoever. Everything it needs to fight disease in its first fragile months of life will come from its mother’s first milk. This first milk, or colostrum, can only be absorbed thru the stomach lining for the first 12 to 24 hours. Failure to nurse properly in the first 24 hours will mean plasma transfusions later. Very pricey!

I would recommend going online to http://www.valleyvet.com or http://www.kvvet.com and ordering a Predict-A-Foal kit. It is bout 30 bucks. You get test strips that test the calcium level of milk that you dilute with distilled water (they call it “test solution.”) When all 5 bars turn red, you’re having a baby. It’s been better than 80% accurate for us.

Next big development will be the softening of the muscles around the tail head and the very noticeable relaxation of the vulva. When she loses all tail tone – you can fold her tail flat on her back and she can’t stop you – you’re very close. Also, the teats themselves may go from dry black (or pink on some spotted or white mares) to shiny. Another good sign. She may also develop wax on the tip of the teats. It’s like dripping candle wax, or old, crystalizing honey. Not all mares do this, but many do. She may also stream milk down her legs for up to a week before foaling. If it is excessive, it’s not a bad idea to strip out about a pint and freeze it. For that matter, if your first mare goes great, after baby nurses couple times, strip out about a pint and freeze it, then if your subsequent mares should become aglactic (doesn’t lactate) you have colostrum to bottle feed the baby for the antibodies it needs. Also, start stripping milk, a few squirts each day and look at it. It should be very clear and a pale yellow at first. It will thicken and become more cloudy as she progresses. Generally don’t waste test strips on clear milk. Often on the day she will foal, the milk will suddenly turn white. While that is a powerful sign, some don’t turn white until the baby is out and some are white for a week.

Any or all of these signs can be present in any imminent mare. Each is different, so you add up the signs till you have enough to feel she’s ready. The Predict-A-Foal kit is priceless.

Final twist, if your mares have access to fescue, even a little bit in hay or pasture, they may suffer fescue toxicosis. An endophyte infects most fescue that, among other things, interferes with the hormones that signal the end of gestation and the beginning of parturition. In other words your mare comes up on her due date, and just nothing really happens. She may get a little bag, she may soften up behind, but not enough to foal and the date comes and goes with no baby. The first mare I encountered this with went a month late before I figured it out. Luckily there is a simple remedy. A drug called Domperidone, often sold as Equi-Done, comes in a 5-dose paste syringe. It should run $50 or $60. You administer one dose orally each morning from the due date on just like wormer. You’ll often see fast changes and most foal within 3 days if they were truly ready and the fescue was truly the problem. If the mare is milking well, though, fescue is probably not a problem and she’s just taking her time. Note that this does not actually induce foaling in anyway. It just allows the hormones to release if she is truly ready to foal. As any mare can be up to a couple weeks late and be perfectly normal, I’ll often let several days pass after the due date on a mare who is not “shaping up” before I give her the Dom. To give it before she’s ready is just a waste of money. Also, if your mare has been grazed on fescue throughout her pregnancy, she may have what‚s known as Red Bag Syndrome. The placenta, instead of thin and whitish, can be red and thick. In some cases the placenta has been too thick for the baby to rupture. A perfectly healthy baby is foaled in a perfectly normal delivery only to suffocate in the placenta, a VERY good reason to try and be there. It’s rare, but it happens. A small opening with a sharp knife when baby is more than halfway out (shoulders must be clear) should be all it takes.

If it helps, I’ve read darn near everything ever written it would seem, could just about give a lecture on the topic and I’ve been off by up to 11 days. Just a gentle reminder from God that we ain’t Him :)

Categories Horse Health, Natural Horse Care
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Horse Dental Care

Routine dental care is absolutely vital to your horse’s health and general happiness. Lucky for us, though, it usually only needs to be addressed once a year, is most often quite simple, and is not terribly expensive.

A horse’s teeth begin erupting about a week after it is born and continue to erupt throughout its life. Like an iceberg, what you see is only the tip, with much more lying in wait in the jaw for future eruption. You may have wondered at times, as you watch and listen to your horse contentedly munching its grain, about the amazing strength and power it takes to pulverize hardened grains and kernels of corn into the fine meal your horse finally swallows. The equine jaw is enormously powerful and the punishment taken by the teeth is tremendous. As a matter of fact, left unchecked in the wild, dental wear is a major contributor to the much shorter average life span of the wild and feral horse as compared to its domestic counterpart. Teeth that have worn past a certain point can no longer process food well enough for it to be readily digested. The result is a horse that eats constantly while literally starving itself to death. As a horse owner, seeing large amounts of grain being dropped at feed time or finding whole grains or large pieces of roughage in the manure should be a clue that it’s time for a trip to the dentist.

What Is A Horse Teeth Float?

A routine float that primarily consists of rasping the molars to an even surface, rounding edges, rasping any long canines and removing wolf teeth is a job for a certified equine dentist. The routine float usually costs around $60 dollars and should be performed annually. Occasionally more than just routine work is needed to get teeth back in shape in which case a good equine dental professional is equipped to bring in power tools and specialized knowledge to return your Flicka to her pearly white grin.

Lastly, because poorly and unevenly worn teeth are not only inefficient, but can be sharp and painful to your horse, teeth are often the first thing a smart horseman will check when dealing with riding and bitting problems. If you do not know when your horse’s teeth were last done, they’re due. Again, a quick mark in your calendar will ensure Charger gets his annual visit to the dental chair, and that you are riding a happy and healthy horse.

Categories Horse Health
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